Berluti’s Winter 2020 collection challenges the conventional stereotypes of the century-old shoemaker and street fashion chic by seeking a balance between the brand’s classic elements and contemporary fashion style through encompassed tailoring.
The fashion house’s inspiration – the stained surfaces of the old marble tables on which Berluti craftsmen in Ferrara hand-dyed shoes – continue to show themselves on silk shirts and the season’s essential calf leather outerwear.
In addition, motifs associated with the brand’s staple items, such as trompe l’oeil prints on silk shirts, houndstooth patterns on a camel-colored knit and a hand-splashed hooded calf leather jacket, as well as Prince of Wales checks with houndstooth on a double-faced wool coat, have been introduced.
All of these are classics, but the innovation lies in combining and blending these items with sportswear. Advocating a recreational and relaxed style, the collection emerges in shocking pink, blue, white and orange.
A blue slate suit is the most eye-catching item. Its silhouette is loose, and the suit is worn with a crimson roll neck and bright purple and orange sneakers, revealing a dynamic vigor.
The classic Scritto motif is also reinterpreted in the new Signature Canvas series – comprising a weekend bag, a backpack, a tote and small leather goods – and on trunks, a watch case and a shoe care kit.
(This article was published at The Standard on December 4, 2020: Weekend Glitz: Centuries of chic )